Monday, 26 January 2015

Unbelievable (VI,8) - although I still think it felt closer to (V, 6).

25m. Crib Goch.

Loosely follows the summer line of Reid’s Route (HVS 5a).

“Scramble up Crazy Pinnacle Gully for 30m. Belay beneath the chockstones blocking the left branch of the gully.

Climb up the left side of the wall, following cracks and small hooks. At about half-height the crack disappears. Make a rising rightwards traverse on thin hooks. Continue to the horizontal break above, then go straight up the middle of the wall again. Belay at the end of the climbing.”

T. Livingstone, P. Harrison & S. Frost.


More photos in the Gallery here.
Read this V12 Outdoor report for a write-up of our route, plus a new route by Owen Samuel and Adam Crook on the same crag.

I’ve named this route Unbelievable for a number of reasons:

1) I'm not sure on Simon and Pete’s grade suggestion of VI, 8 - although I’m sure they’re right, as they’ve done a lot more of this stuff than me.

2) The route looks harder and blanker than it actually is.

3) The classic Guy Martin quote: “Unbelievable? Have you ever seen a man eat his own head? That’s unbelievable!”

Tom LivingstoneComment