Klettern Magazine Interview — Tom Livingstone

Descending the West Buttress on Denali. Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn

I was asked a few questions by the German climbing magazine ‘Klettern.’ If you’re in Germany, Austria or Switzerland and can speak the language, go and buy the magazine. Print media is rapidly becoming a thing of the past, so it’s worth supporting. Besides, a magazine is much better than an online version.
I thought the questions were pretty good, and relevant to today’s climbers (including myself), so I’ve published parts of the interview below.

In September 2019, you received a Piolet d’Or for your ascent of the North Ridge/South Face of Latok I with Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar. Is this an important award for you? Or for expedtion climbers in general?
I appreciate it when friends acknowledge the years of effort involved in climbing technical routes at high altitude. However, I don’t agree with the concept of awards in alpinism, so, in answer to your question: no, it’s not important to me.
Aleš, Luka and I shared an unquantifiable, unexplainable journey on Latok I, and even if we had turned back one metre from the summit, and therefore not ‘succeeded’ in the eyes of the award, I would still feel deeply proud of our efforts. I don’t think you can easily measure success in alpine climbing. We should climb in the mountains to lose the ego and self - not to be a slave to it.
For your second question: anyone who climbs in the mountains will know how little the Piolet d’Or truly means. If you travel through beautiful mountains; if you spend months of your life in Base Camps; if you burn through thousands of Pounds chasing a dream; and if you’re lucky to climb something which means a lot to you… you’ll know. How can you possibly measure this against others’ experiences?

British climbers have had a strong influence in establishing “fast and light“ alpinism in the greater ranges. Would you even consider an expedition, that doesn‘t apply this style of mountaineering? If not, why not?
I think ‘alpine style’ is the best way to climb in the mountains. It’s meeting the challenge of the mountain, without degrading it by using bolts, for example. I only go on ‘alpine style’ expeditions. It’s much more pleasant to climb quickly and with light backpacks. Plus, once you get to high altitude, it’s hard enough to climb technical pitches, let alone with the extra weight of a heavy backpack! One day, I would consider climbing an 8000 metre peak in order to get the true experience of high altitude, but I would want this to be without fixed ropes and oxygen, for example. This probably wouldn’t be very ‘fast and light,’ I guess.

What is the beauty of climbing in a small team on a big mountain?
You feel small. You appreciate your place in the mountains, and in the world. I realise how much I rely on my partner(s), and they on me. The exposure, the independence, the commitment, the uncertainties, all make for a rich adventure.

On Latok I as well as on your recent ascent of Koyo Zom you experienced the risks involved in this “pure“ style (on Latok, on Russian alpinist, Sergej Glazunov, of a two-man-team died; on Koyo Zom you and your partner had to be rescued by a helicopter). What conclusion do you draw for yourself from these experiences?
Accidents highlight the risks in the mountains, and how much we should pay attention to them. Sometimes an accident happens because of bad luck, but sometimes people put themselves in these situations. It’s very important to keep your focus in the mountains. I know I have sometimes been lucky with risk. Of course, sometimes we are drawn to the mountains because our actions have high consequences. I try to think of each step, each pitch, and where it will lead.

How do the British climbers finance their expeditions (and how do you do it)? Isn‘t it a very expensive hobby, that only “professional“ climbers can pursue?
I was recently speaking to the Polish alpinist, Voytek Kurtyka, about how to finance expeditions. He gave a crafty smile and said, ‘imports and exports!’ Read Voytek’s book and you’ll know what I mean. I also do what I must to fund my expeditions… but there are several things which help:
Live cheaply and get a job which funds the climber lifestyle (like Rope Access).
Apply for grants. In the UK, we are lucky to have support from the British Mountaineering Council, the Alpine Club and the Mount Everest Foundation, for example.
Go to cheaper places, like India and Pakistan. ‘Alpine style’ expeditions aren’t very expensive, compared to walking up Everest in a queue!
I have been alpine climbing 'full time’ for six years, and only sponsored for about the last two years. You definitely don’t need to be ‘professional.’ If you want to climb, you’ll find a way. One of the most important things is a high level of motivation.

Approaching the summit of Mt. Fay after climbing the Greenwood-Jones. Canadian Rockies. Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn