2019
A few highlights from 2019.
January
I spent the month sport climbing in Spain, first sampling the Basque Country, and then Chulilla. It was ace to get some fitness again, and hang out with friends in the warm weather.
La Mala (8b), Chulilla. Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn
February
I went to Scotland, hoping for at least some decent mixed climbing conditions. Unfortunately, Uisdean and I only got two good days! This is Uisdean questing up to the crux of a thin-looking The Shield Direct (VII, 7)… before down-climbing again!
March
I went to Canada, hoping for big alpine routes. Funky weather windows arrived, which made it hard to know what to try. Plus, Canada is a vast, loose and occasionally scary place. Uisdean and I bailed off many things, including The Wild Thing on Mt. Cephren. Here’s Uisdean, power-napping before we bailed.
April
I climbed (or tried to climb) a few classics in Canada, before Fabi Buhl joined me for the rest of my trip. We attempted a really cool route on Mt. Fay, but got shut down unfortunately. You win some, you lose some!
Fabi during our new route attempt on Mt. Fay, Canada
May
I travelled to Europe, keen to explore more of the Alps. I hadn’t even climbed the Matterhorn, so, with the forecast mixed and the mountain looking very wintry, I took the opportunity to solo the Hornli Ridge - a scramble in summer, but slightly more in these conditions, with the place to myself.
#SelfiesAreForSummits. Thankfully, this was the top of the Matterhorn on a snowy day in May.
June
I returned back to North Wales, psyched to be home. Keen to finish off old projects, I cleaned and climbed a new route on Cloggy, calling it The Good Life because I think living in this part of the world is great. Angus made a smooth second ascent of the route.
The Good Life (E4 6a) ish, Cloggy. Photo: Angus Kille
July
At the start of the month, I found a bit of form and managed to onsight Authentic Desire (E7 6b) with Alex Mason, and Conan the Librarian (E6 6b) with Ben Silvestre. I’d wanted to do these classics for a long time, so they were really satisfying - in hindsight! I then went to the Alps and climbed the Peuterey Integrale on Mont Blanc with Uisdean and Robert Grasegger - cheers for a good one, lads! I had a big (unacclimatised) headache on the top of the Blanc.
August
Together with several other people (like Ian Parnell), I organised an event which kicked off a new sort of mentorship group for young UK alpinists. The idea is to encourage experienced alpine climbers to safely progress to bigger objectives. 25 people turned up in Saas Grund, Switzerland, for two weeks. The event was financially supported by the BMC. Will Sim helped out, giving sage advice about ‘4000-er mini golf.’ Hopefully there’s more to come. Read more here.
Luke Maddock-Lyon on the north ridge of the Weissmeis, Switzerland. Photo: Will Lewallen
September
Will Sim organised a trip to the Yarkhun Valley, in the Hindu Raj region of Pakistan, and invited John Crook, Ally Swinton, Uisdean Hawthorn and myself to join. We set about acclimatising for Koyo Zom (6877m). With five Brits, four Pakistanis and one (ex) goat at Base Camp, we had a blast.
Ally, me, Will, John and Uisdean, with Koyo Zom in the background. Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn
October
Ally and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Koyo Zom, reaching the top on the fifth day. It was a great adventure, and looked very improbable (see below). We had an accident on the descent, but all’s well that ends well.
Gogarth or Pakistan? Ally seconding one of the crux pitches on Day 3, 6300m, Koyo Zom.
November
The trips away have made me appreciate being home. I’ve been enjoying training in North Wales and Innsbruck. I was pretty pumped on the warm-ups at the wall! Alpine climbing sure is good for getting heavy legs and weak fingers.
Snowdon and Llyn Padarn on a frosty afternoon.
December
I’ve been sport climbing in France and Spain with good company. The aim is to transfer this fitness into the mountains, but we’ll see…
A 50 metre route I didn’t manage to climb (unsurprisingly): Les Ailes du Desir (8a). Cheers for the powerful craic, lads! Photo: Kris McCoey